When watch enthusiast Mark Cho couldn’t find a bracelet to match his Cartier Tank, he decided to make one himself. Cho, co-founder of menswear brands The Armory and Drake’s, has now entered the world of custom watch accessories with a line of handcrafted 18k gold bracelets.
Cho is known for his deep watch collection and sharp eye for design. His latest project started as a personal experiment. “I always wanted to make a multicolored gold bracelet for my Tank Mosaic,” he said. The idea took shape after he saw a 1970s Cartier Cintrée on a white gold bracelet and met a semi-retired goldsmith who could help bring his vision to life.
At first, Cho made just ten bracelets—one for himself and nine for select customers of The Armory. But after posting a photo on Instagram, interest grew quickly. The bracelets are now available to order through The Armory’s website.
Inspired by vintage Cartier designs and auction catalogs from the 1990s, Cho aimed for both authenticity and quality. “We considered making hollow bracelets, but for something like a Cartier, it didn’t feel right,” he said. “So we went with solid gold links and didn’t cut corners.”
The production process is detailed and precise. Each bracelet is first tested in brass for fit and function. If it passes, it’s remade in gold and then hand-finished—one of the most time-consuming steps. The bracelets feature screwed end links for a secure fit and a butterfly clasp for comfort. Designs vary to match different watch models: wider links suit the Tank Louis Cartier, while slimmer ones complement the Tank Cintrée.
Customers can choose from yellow, rose, or white gold. For platinum Cartier watches, rhodium plating is suggested. A tri-color gold version is also available, designed to match the 2022 Mosaic Dial Louis Cartier. Buyers can select either a brushed or polished finish. All pieces are made-to-order in Hong Kong, with a delivery time of about four months.
Cho admits stepping into the watch accessory market has been daunting. “There’s so much craftsmanship in watchmaking. I didn’t want to overreach,” he said. Still, he believes the bracelets offer strong value for their quality. Prices start at $20,500 for a single-color bracelet and $24,500 for the tri-color. Buyers pay 50% upfront and the rest upon delivery.
Blending his menswear background with horology, Cho sees bracelet design as similar to tailoring—a balance of art and engineering. “It’s hard to imagine anyone doing a better, cheaper version,” he said. “We wanted to make something that didn’t already exist.”
Looking forward, Cho plans to experiment with finer designs using up to eleven links for a mesh-like look. He’s also working on rounded end-links to fit more watch cases.
In a conservative industry with long-standing traditions, Cho’s custom bracelets are a bold but thoughtful step forward. “You can’t be too radical, or no one buys it,” he said. “But rehashing old designs isn’t exciting either. This bracelet is the exception—because I wanted it so badly.”
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