In a surprise move, Bulgari has introduced a striking new timepiece: a Serpenti watch designed specifically for men. The launch was revealed by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, during a presentation of the brand’s latest automatic Serpenti watches for women at its Fifth Avenue boutique in New York City.
Just before ending the event, Buonamassa Stigliani unveiled the unexpected creation. “And now, I’m going to show you something very special… a Serpenti for men,” he said. The announcement, kept under embargo until now, caught attending journalists off guard.
The new men’s Serpenti is not a scaled-up version of the classic Tubogas, as some had speculated in the past. Instead, it is the result of an avant-garde collaboration between Bulgari and independent watchmaker MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends). This marks the second partnership between the two, following the 2021 release of the MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra.
This latest design blends the distinctive DNA of both brands. The case draws inspiration from MB&F’s HM10 Bulldog and the head of Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti. “Honestly, it was very hard at the beginning to find the face of this watch,” said Buonamassa Stigliani. “But once I knew I wanted it to show the eyes of the snake and still tell time clearly, the rest came together in two days.”
The result is a bold and sculptural timepiece available in three versions:
- 18-karat rose gold ($170,000)
- Grade 5 titanium ($148,000)
- Black PVD-coated stainless steel ($148,000)
Each edition is limited to 33 pieces.
The 39 mm wide watch measures 18 mm thick with a 53 mm lug-to-lug length. Inside, a hand-finished MB&F movement, composed of 310 parts, powers the watch. The time is displayed via two rotating aluminum domes representing the eyes of a snake—each coated with SuperLuminova so they glow in the dark. These details make the timepiece feel alive and dynamic, even when still.
The design is a meeting point of creativity and engineering. Buonamassa Stigliani, known for developing the Octo Finissimo, brought his automotive design background from Alfa Romeo to the project. The influence of cars is clear: the stepped sapphire crystal recalls rear window flaps, while the crowns resemble sports car wheels.
For MB&F, the project is a natural extension of its bold design philosophy. Since its founding in 2005, the brand has created 20 unconventional calibers. Founder Max Büsser’s vision continues to push the limits of traditional watchmaking.
This men’s Serpenti may not be what some imagined, but it represents a new direction—one that blends high horology, playful rebellion, and sculptural form. It’s not a watch for everyone, but for the few who will own it, it promises to be a truly standout piece in any collection.