Tiffany & Co. CEO Anthony Ledru appeared calm and confident as he sat in the VIP lounge of the Landmark flagship on 57th Street in New York City. Just days earlier, LVMH Watch Week had to relocate from Los Angeles due to wildfires, forcing a rapid pivot to Manhattan. Despite freezing temperatures and a whirlwind of changes, the event proceeded smoothly—with Tiffany hosting some of the most anticipated presentations.
This marked Tiffany & Co.’s and Louis Vuitton’s debut at LVMH Watch Week, joining sister brands Hublot, TAG Heuer, Zenith, and L’Epée. Bulgari showcased across the street, while Louis Vuitton and Gérald Genta took over a neighboring space.
Though the sudden venue change may have caused behind-the-scenes challenges, Ledru showed no sign of pressure. Under his leadership, Tiffany’s participation highlighted a growing interest in watchmaking—especially given recent signs of deeper involvement from members of the Arnault family, who oversee LVMH. However, Ledru made it clear that Tiffany’s main focus remains on jewelry.
“The strategic decision has been made to stick to jewelry for the first few years, perhaps beyond,” he said. “It’s much easier.” He explained that developing technical watches, especially those with in-house movements, demands major investment and infrastructure.
Still, Tiffany made a strong impression with a new high-jewelry timepiece that blends fine watchmaking and exquisite design. First shown in Beverly Hills during a Blue Book high-jewelry event, the piece includes a flying tourbillon topped with a diamond, set against a turquoise dial shaped like clouds. The off-center time display features pavé diamonds, with two gold-accented birds flying across the face. Diamonds cover the case, crown, and even the movement—developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Artime—visible through a sapphire crystal back. Only 25 of these watches were made, and two have already been sold to U.S.-based male collectors.
Bird on a Rock, a beloved design by Jean Schlumberger, was a recurring theme throughout the showcase. One standout piece featured the bird perched on a rotating ring of 36 baguette-cut tsavorites, spinning above a diamond dial and case. Another version paired white baguette diamonds with a sapphire center, while the most lavish design boasted 1,318 round diamonds on a bracelet, crowned by a bird resting on aquamarines.
“The Bird on a Rock design has become a major focus since the acquisition,” said Ledru. “It’s grown the most, and it’s very important at this stage.”
Schlumberger’s legacy continues to shape Tiffany’s creative direction. Since LVMH acquired Tiffany for $16.8 billion, the brand’s high jewelry collections have heavily drawn from the late designer’s work. “He is the backbone,” Ledru said. “If we were a couture house, he would be the spine.”
The event also spotlighted Tiffany’s rich heritage. A private tour began with a necklace from 1900 that contains earth from the early New York subway excavations. It concluded with the jeweler’s latest acquisition—a historic pocket watch gifted to the captain of the R.M.S. Carpathia by Titanic survivors. Tiffany purchased the watch for $1.97 million, setting a record as the most expensive piece of Titanic memorabilia ever sold.
“The heritage department is essential,” Ledru said. “I think that’s the reason why the group bought Tiffany. Without that true patrimony, I don’t think LVMH would have been as interested.”
Tiffany’s showcase at LVMH Watch Week proved that while the brand stays rooted in jewelry, its blend of heritage, artistry, and selective watchmaking sets a high bar for luxury.
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