Watchmakers Focus on Ultra-High-End Timepieces Amid Economic Uncertainty

by Barbara Wilson

Despite ongoing global economic uncertainty and the introduction of significant tariffs at Watches & Wonders—the world’s largest watch trade show—luxury watchmakers unveiled a series of extravagant timepieces in 2025, signaling a continued reliance on wealthy consumers to sustain the industry.

This trend mirrors the one seen in 2024. According to Morgan Stanley’s Swiss Watch Industry Report, watches priced above $30,500 accounted for 69% of the market’s growth and 44% of the industry’s overall value. This shift has led to remarkable advancements in watchmaking, from tiny, precise mechanical innovations to simplified perpetual calendars that were long anticipated.

Among the most ambitious developments was Vacheron Constantin’s introduction of the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication-La Première, which claims to be the world’s most complicated wristwatch. The Solaria combines 41 complications, developed over eight years by a single watchmaker. While its primary appeal lies in its exclusivity and complexity as a collector’s item, the research and development behind it—featuring 10 patented inventions and three pending patents—could influence future Vacheron models.

Other brands, like Audemars Piguet, focused on more user-friendly innovations. In February, Audemars Piguet launched a groundbreaking perpetual calendar, allowing all calendar functions to be adjusted easily with just one crown. This advancement eliminates the usual frustration of setting such complicated timepieces. At least seven major luxury watchmakers have introduced perpetual calendars in 2025, some even combining them with minute repeaters.

Beyond technical advancements, some brands took the luxury concept to new extremes. Chanel and Hublot released extravagant box sets priced in the six- to seven-figure range, offering exclusive collections to individual buyers. Other brands raised the stakes by featuring expensive stone dials and intricate gem settings.

This bold approach—targeting fewer clients with bigger, more ostentatious offerings—signals that the watch industry is pushing the limits of both mechanical innovation and high-end pricing. Despite the challenges, the industry’s focus remains on driving new developments for the most affluent customers.

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