Will Smith made a surprise return to the red carpet at the Grammy Awards, marking his first major appearance since the 2022 Oscars incident. Dressed in a striking black Balmain suit with silver embellishments from the brand’s pre-Fall 2025 collection, Smith’s look drew plenty of attention. But it was the subtle detail on his wrist that captured the interest of watch enthusiasts.
While he kept his wrist out of sight for cameras, online sleuths and collectors soon identified his timepiece as a vintage Universal Genève Polerouter — a low-key but highly respected choice in the world of fine watches.
Smith collaborated with vintage watch dealer Eric Wind to find the perfect piece. According to Wind, Smith was presented with 17 vintage watches to choose from, many of them classic Rolex models like the Explorer II, Submariner, and Day-Date. Also in the mix was an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
“Will had his pick,” said Wind. “But because of the silver threading on his Balmain jackets, we thought a watch in steel, white gold, or platinum would suit best. He gravitated toward the Universal Genève Polerouter on a black strap — a refined, historic choice.”
The particular model Smith chose, reference S 20217-7, was originally sold by Joyeria Milos in Havana, Cuba. The Polerouter, designed by legendary watchmaker Gérald Genta, was built in the 1950s for Scandinavian Airlines pilots flying over the North Pole. It was one of the first watches to use a microrotor movement and is admired for its clean design and historical value.
Collectors and experts were quick to praise the pick. Jackie Ho, co-founder of Hong Kong’s Watch Ho & Co., called it “a great watch” with commercial and historical appeal. Singaporean collector Norman Seck added, “One of Genta’s early creations. Groundbreaking for the era.”
The watch’s quiet elegance stood out in a sea of flashier, diamond-studded pieces seen at the Grammys. Smith’s choice signals a growing appreciation for vintage watches — especially as Universal Genève prepares for a long-awaited brand revival later this year.
Founded in 1894, Universal Genève developed a strong following over the decades, but struggled during the Quartz Crisis and later attempts at revival in 1994 and 2005. Now, with renewed collector interest and the brand poised for a comeback, Smith’s red carpet moment could not have come at a better time.
“I didn’t know which watch Will would choose,” said Wind. “But it’s great to see someone with his profile embrace vintage in such a thoughtful way. It helps keep the passion alive.”
Thanks to Will Smith, the Universal Genève Polerouter is once again in the spotlight — and may soon be harder to find than ever.
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