Rolex’s legendary Daytona watches are no strangers to the auction circuit, often commanding high prices. But on May 11 in Geneva, Sotheby’s will present a rare opportunity: a one-of-a-kind, custom-ordered platinum Daytona with a light pink mother-of-pearl dial and diamond hour markers. Created for a VIP collector, this watch is making its debut on the market as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches live sale.
Unlike other luxury brands, Rolex is not known for producing custom orders, making this piece exceptionally rare. “This is one of the most important Daytona examples ever offered at auction,” said Benoît Colson, head of watches at Sotheby’s, in a statement. “It’s the final chapter in the sale of an extraordinary four-piece commission, three of which have already sold through Sotheby’s.”
The watch belongs to a special order of four custom Daytonas, all made between 1998 and 1999. Each bears the reference number 16516, with the “6” indicating a platinum case—a feature Rolex did not offer publicly until 2013. All four were created long before the brand officially launched platinum Daytonas for retail.
The previous three examples were just as striking. The first, a platinum Daytona with a rainbow-colored mother-of-pearl dial and Arabic numerals, sold in 2020 at Sotheby’s Hong Kong for HKD 25.3 million (about $3.27 million at the time). In 2021, a second piece with a turquoise Stella lacquered dial and brown leather strap fetched HKD 24.4 million (around $3.14 million).
Though the identity of the original collector remains unknown, many speculate it was Patrick Heiniger, Rolex’s CEO from 1992 to 2008. Heiniger was reportedly seen wearing a platinum Daytona before his death in 2013. If anyone had the authority to request such an exclusive commission, it would have been him.
This final piece from the set is the only one with diamond hour markers, adding another layer of rarity. It is estimated to fetch between CHF 700,000 and 1,400,000 (about $858,830 to $1,717,660), but given the performance of its counterparts, it may well exceed expectations.
Collectors and enthusiasts alike will be watching closely. This sale represents not just the chance to own a rare Rolex, but a piece of the brand’s hidden history.