Cartier is ending its current New Special Order (NSO) program as it reshapes how it produces custom timepieces for top clients. Under the direction of new CEO Louis Ferla, the French luxury house will refocus its custom offerings to better align with its brand identity and heritage.
Ferla, who previously led Vacheron Constantin to become a $1 billion brand, has instructed Cartier to overhaul the NSO initiative. The current version allowed wealthy clients to design personalized watches, some of which have recently fetched high prices at auctions. However, the brand now plans to limit such customizations to truly exceptional pieces.
“Special Orders are an integral part of the Maison,” said Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer. “We are reviewing our policy to return to the original intent of the NSO, which is to surprise clients with unique creations that enrich Cartier’s heritage.”
The decision comes after growing criticism from collectors who observed too many similar NSO pieces being produced. While Cartier never claimed NSO watches would be one-of-a-kind, many clients believed their commissions were exclusive. Some later discovered near-identical designs elsewhere, sparking frustration and disappointment.
Andreas Weinås, a collector who commissioned a Cartier Crash in white gold with a salmon dial during the pandemic, noted a rise in similar watches afterward. “It made mine feel less special,” he said. Others echoed that sentiment, especially after seeing their designs replicated on social media or at collector events.
Despite these concerns, Cartier will not abandon custom watches entirely. Instead, it plans to create fewer, more exclusive special orders — possibly following a model similar to Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers, which focuses on artistic, one-of-a-kind pieces.
Current NSO orders will still be fulfilled, but moving forward, Cartier’s standards for bespoke work will be significantly higher. The shift reflects a broader goal to preserve the brand’s identity while elevating the level of craftsmanship.
Cartier became the second-largest Swiss watchmaker by sales in 2020, driven by strong demand for refreshed versions of classic models like the Tank and Santos. The new direction under Ferla suggests a renewed emphasis on rarity, innovation, and artistic excellence — a change welcomed by many long-time admirers of the brand.
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