As part of its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet has brought its heritage pilot’s watch back into the spotlight—this time in New York City. After recent showcases in Paris and Shanghai, the brand unveiled the new Type XX Chronographe 2075BH, a pair of manually wound, solid-gold chronographs. These timepieces refresh the historic pilot’s watch that once helped save the company.
Last year’s steel Type 20 and Type XX models marked the official relaunch of the collection. But this new release feels more personal—less a reboot, more a tribute.
The 2075BH collection includes two versions: one with a black anodized aluminum dial and another limited edition of 250 pieces featuring a vertically brushed solid silver dial. Both watches have a 38.3mm case made of “Breguet gold,” a proprietary alloy introduced earlier this year. This warm-toned metal sits between yellow and rose gold. The size and hand-wound movement directly reference a 1955 civilian Type XX model, now part of the Breguet museum collection.
Inside, the watches house evolved versions of the 5Hz caliber 728 chronograph movement launched in 2023. Breguet developed two manual variants for the 2075BH: caliber 7279 powers the black dial with a 15-minute counter, while caliber 7278 runs the silver dial model with a 30-minute counter and tachymeter. Both retain flyback functionality, vital for aviation.
The movements are decorated with a hand-engraved image of the Breguet 19 aircraft flying across the Atlantic. This pays homage to the historic 1930 Paris-to-New York flight by aviators Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte, who completed the journey in a Breguet-built plane—an emotional centerpiece of this collection.
The black dial, a first for Breguet in aluminum, honors Louis Breguet’s pioneering use of Duralumin in aviation. It features luminous Arabic numerals and an oversized minute register, reflecting its military roots. The silver dial offers a more classic look, marked “Ag925” and featuring applied non-luminous numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock with pointed batons elsewhere. Both models come with gradient leather straps and a red Moroccan leather box inspired by vintage packaging.
The black dial Type XX 2075BH is not limited and retails at $43,500. The silver dial version is limited to 250 pieces and priced at $45,200.
To fully appreciate the 2075BH, it helps to remember the 2023 steel Type 20 and Type XX models. Those 42mm automatic watches represented a reset for the line, dividing it between a military-style and a civilian model. They aimed to blend Breguet’s high-watchmaking standards with wider appeal. While successful, they left some collectors wanting more. The new 2075BH models answer that call with their smaller size, manual winding, and deeply personal design.
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