Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001: Review

by Barbara Wilson

In the world of haute horlogerie, few names carry the weight and prestige of Patek Philippe. Established in 1839, this Swiss luxury watchmaker has consistently set the bar for craftsmanship, design, and innovation in the industry. Among their remarkable creations, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 stands as a shining example of modern luxury watchmaking. In this comprehensive review, we will take an in-depth look at the remarkable features and design elements that define this timepiece, revealing why it is held in such high regard among collectors and enthusiasts alike.


I. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 – Features and Design

1. The 42.2mm White Gold Case

At the heart of the Aquanaut 5168G-001’s allure is its exquisite 42.2mm white gold case. Crafted with meticulous precision, this case not only exudes opulence but also embodies strength and durability. White gold, a luxurious and rare metal, imparts a lustrous sheen that sets it apart from the stainless steel or titanium cases commonly found in sports watches. The rounded octagonal shape of the case pays homage to the iconic design language of the Aquanaut series, creating a distinct and memorable profile that captures attention.


2. The Blue Embossed Dial with Arabic Numerals

The watch’s dial is where the Aquanaut truly comes to life. The captivating blue embossed dial is a masterpiece of texture and color. This intricate texture adds depth and dimension to the watch face, creating an ever-changing interplay of light and shadow. Against this captivating backdrop, the white gold applied Arabic numerals and luminous hands deliver not only impeccable legibility but also a harmonious visual balance. The blend of form and function on the dial exemplifies Patek Philippe’s commitment to watchmaking excellence.


3. The Khaki Green Dial

In addition to the iconic blue dial, Patek Philippe offers a distinctive khaki green variant of the 5168G-001. This alternative dial color introduces a touch of versatility to the watch, allowing it to seamlessly transition from formal affairs to outdoor adventures. The khaki green dial, with its earthy tones, appeals to those with a penchant for unique and unconventional luxury timepieces. This variation underscores Patek Philippe’s dedication to providing options that cater to diverse tastes.


4. The Self-Winding Automatic Movement

Beneath the captivating exterior, the Aquanaut 5168G-001 houses the esteemed Caliber 324 S C movement. This self-winding automatic movement is a testament to Patek Philippe’s commitment to precision and reliability. Its seamless operation is the result of meticulous craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology. The movement not only ensures impeccable timekeeping but also offers the convenience of a date aperture at the 3 o’clock position, elevating its practicality as a daily wearer.

5. Water Resistance up to 120 Meters

While the Aquanaut 5168G-001 may possess the aesthetics of a luxury sports watch, it also delivers on the promise of functionality. With a remarkable water resistance rating of up to 120 meters (approximately 394 feet), this timepiece is more than just a fashion statement; it is a capable dive watch. Whether you’re snorkeling in tropical waters or exploring the depths of the ocean, the Aquanaut is equipped to accompany you on aquatic adventures with confidence and style.

6. The Blue Rubber Strap with Fold-Over Deployment Clasp

Ensuring a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist, the Aquanaut 5168G-001 is adorned with a blue rubber strap featuring a fold-over deployment clasp. This choice of strap material not only enhances comfort during extended wear but also underscores the watch’s sporty character. The fold-over deployment clasp adds a touch of sophistication while maintaining a sleek and streamlined aesthetic. This thoughtful design detail showcases Patek Philippe’s dedication to both form and function, ensuring that the Aquanaut is as comfortable as it is stylish.

7. The Caliber 324 S C Movement with 45-Hour Power Reserve

Inside the Aquanaut 5168G-001, the Caliber 324 S C movement powers the watch with remarkable precision. This self-winding movement boasts a 45-hour power reserve, ensuring that the watch keeps impeccable time even during periods of non-wear. This feature enhances the practicality of the timepiece, allowing the wearer to set it aside for a day or two without the need for constant winding. The Caliber 324 S C is a masterpiece of horological engineering, showcasing Patek Philippe’s dedication to crafting movements that marry tradition with innovation.

8. The Jumbo Size of the Watch

One cannot discuss the Aquanaut 5168G-001 without acknowledging its “Jumbo” size. This bold departure from the more understated dimensions of traditional Patek Philippe timepieces caters to those who appreciate a statement watch. With a larger case diameter, the Aquanaut makes a substantial presence on the wrist, exuding confidence and charisma. The Jumbo size of the watch aligns perfectly with contemporary trends, where larger timepieces are favored for their visual impact and wrist presence. For those who relish the bold and the daring, the Aquanaut 5168G-001 delivers in grand style.

II. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 vs. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5167/1A-001

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5167/1A-001 is another distinguished member of the Patek Philippe family, known for its unique design and luxurious appeal. It shares certain design elements with the Aquanaut series, thanks to the creative genius of famed designer Gerald Genta.


Material: While the Aquanaut 5168G-001 features a white gold case, the Nautilus 5167/1A-001 opts for stainless steel. This material choice imparts a different aesthetic and weight to each watch.

Formality: The Nautilus leans toward a more formal aesthetic with its distinctive porthole-shaped bezel, while the Aquanaut embraces a modern and sporty design.

Water Resistance: Both watches offer a water resistance rating of up to 120 meters, making them suitable for aquatic activities. However, the Nautilus maintains a more refined appearance.

Display: The 5167/1A-001 offers a classic time-and-date display with a sweep seconds hand, appealing to those who prefer a traditional approach.

Dial Texture: The Aquanaut’s embossed dial adds texture and depth, while the Nautilus opts for a flatter, sunburst-style dial with horizontal grooves.

Strap/Bracelet: The Aquanaut features a sporty blue rubber strap, whereas the Nautilus comes with a stainless steel bracelet, adding a dressier touch to the ensemble.

Taste and Preference: The choice between the Aquanaut and the Nautilus ultimately comes down to personal taste and lifestyle. The former exudes modernity and versatility, while the latter showcases timeless elegance and refinement.

III. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 vs. Rolex Submariner Date 116610LN

The Rolex Submariner Date 116610LN represents a legendary line of dive watches that has garnered acclaim for its robust construction and iconic design. Comparing it to the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 reveals distinct differences in style, function, and purpose.


Dive Capability: The Submariner is purpose-built for underwater exploration, boasting a remarkable water resistance rating of 300 meters (approximately 1,000 feet). It is the ideal choice for professional divers and enthusiasts who demand the utmost in aquatic performance.

Materials: Rolex employs stainless steel for both the case and bracelet of the Submariner, emphasizing durability and corrosion resistance. In contrast, the Aquanaut features the opulence of white gold.

Bezel Functionality: The Submariner features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale, a crucial tool for divers to track elapsed time underwater. The Aquanaut’s fixed bezel serves a different purpose, primarily for aesthetic reasons.

Date Display: While both watches offer date displays, the Submariner incorporates a magnifier over the date window, enhancing legibility.

Design Language: The Submariner boasts a more traditional and timeless design, characterized by its iconic black dial with luminescent markers, Mercedes hands, and a stainless steel case. In contrast, the Aquanaut embodies a contemporary and sporty aesthetic.

Purpose: The Submariner is unequivocally a tool watch designed for underwater use, while the Aquanaut combines luxury with aquatic capabilities. The choice between them depends on one’s specific needs and preferences, whether for rugged adventure or refined style.


The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 represents a harmonious blend of elegance and functionality. Its design elements, such as the white gold case, embossed dial, and rubber strap, coalesce to create a modern icon in the realm of luxury sports watches. With its “Jumbo” size, the Aquanaut caters to those who seek a commanding presence on their wrist.

While the Aquanaut shares design elements with its sibling, the Nautilus, it offers a more contemporary and sporty interpretation. Contrasting it with the Rolex Submariner Date 116610LN, a dive watch renowned for its durability and function, reveals the distinctiveness of the Aquanaut as a luxury sports watch with aquatic capabilities.

In the realm of haute horlogerie, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-001 shines as a testament to the brand’s unwavering dedication to innovation and craftsmanship. It is a coveted possession for watch enthusiasts and collectors, capturing hearts with its timeless design and exceptional features.


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